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Oceanum Gabon ECMWF Wave Forecast

February 2025

   
Model SWAN 41.31
Forecast horizon 7 days
Spatial resolution 0.05 degree (~5 km) parent, 0.005 degree (~500 m) nested
Temporal resolution 1 hourly
Region 5E - 12.5E, 6S - 3N
Forcings ECMWF winds, Mercator currents, and Oceanum spectra
Update frequency 12-hourly

Dataset description

The Gabon wave forecast dataset provides operational wave predictions across the Gabon coastal waters and adjacent Atlantic Ocean (Figure 1). The domain encompasses the entire Gabon coastline and extends offshore to capture Atlantic Ocean swell propagation. Wave forecasts are produced using the SWAN (Simulating WAves Nearshore) third-generation spectral wave model, with a 7-day forecast horizon updated every 12 hours (00, 12 UTC).

Wind forcing is provided by ECMWF IFS Open Data global atmospheric model. Ocean currents are prescribed from Mercator global ocean analysis to capture wave-current interactions. Spectral boundary conditions are supplied by the Oceanum Global WW3 ECMWF wave forecast. Bathymetry is derived from the GEBCO 2025 global bathymetric grid.

The modelling setup employs the ST6 source term parameterisations. Spectra are discretised into 36 directional bins and 32 frequency bins, covering a frequency range from 0.037 to 0.71 Hz with 10% logarithmic increments. The parent domain features a regular grid with a 5 km (0.05 degree) resolution, with a nested 500 m (0.005 degree) domain covering the Western Gabon coastal region for detailed nearshore wave predictions.

The dataset provides hourly forecast estimates for key ocean wave parameters (Table 2) including spectral quantities integrated over the full spectrum and for spectral partitions. Partitions are defined from an 8-second split (sea/swell) and from the Watershed method, which identifies one wind-forced partition and up to two swell partitions. Forecasts are archived for 30 days, and frequency-direction wave spectra are available at selected sites in the nested Western Gabon domain.

Figure 1

Figure 1. Gabon wave forecast domain extent showing the parent 5 km domain and nested Western Gabon 500 m domain.


Validation

The wave model physics and calibration follow the same approach validated against satellite altimeter observations for Oceanum’s West Africa hindcast domain. The ST6 source term parameterisation has been extensively validated for tropical Atlantic conditions.


Data description

Table 1. Data description.

Field Value
Title Oceanum Gabon wave forecast
Institution Oceanum
Access Oceanum Datamesh
Source SWAN 41.31A
Source terms ST6
Forecast horizon 7 days
Update frequency 12-hourly (ECMWF)
Archive period 30 days
Temporal resolution 1 hourly
Spatial coverage (5km) [5E, 6S, 12.5E, 3N] at 0.05 degree
Spatial coverage (500m) [8.8E, 2.4S, 9.65E, 1.3S] at 0.005 degree
Frequency discretisation 32 frequencies between 0.037 - 0.71 Hz at 10% logarithmic increments
Direction resolution 10 deg
Bathymetry GEBCO 2025 Grid
Winds ECMWF IFS
Currents Mercator Global Ocean Analysis
Boundary Oceanum Global WW3 ECMWF wave forecast

Linked Datamesh datasources

Gabon 5 km (ECMWF, 12-hourly updates)

Western Gabon 500 m (ECMWF, 12-hourly updates)


Integrated parameters gridded output

Integrated wave parameters are stored hourly over the domain at the native model resolution. Table 2 describes long names and units of the 21 gridded output parameters, including one wind-forced partition and two swell partitions from the Watershed method.

Table 2. Gridded output parameters.

Variable Long Name Units
depth depth below sea surface m
dpm mean direction at the spectral peak of wind and swell waves degree
dpmsea mean direction at the spectral peak of wind waves below 8 seconds period degree
dpmswe mean direction at the spectral peak of swell waves above 8 seconds period degree
dspr directional spreading of wind and swell waves degree
fspr normalised width of the frequency spectrum of wind and swell waves -
hs significant height of wind and swell waves m
hsea significant height of wind waves under 8 seconds period m
hswe significant height of swell waves above 8 seconds period m
pdir0 mean direction of wind waves (partition 0) degree
pdir1 mean direction of primary swell waves (partition 1) degree
pdir2 mean direction of secondary swell waves (partition 2) degree
pdspr0 directional spreading of wind waves (partition 0) degree
pdspr1 directional spreading of primary swell waves (partition 1) degree
pdspr2 directional spreading of secondary swell waves (partition 2) degree
phs0 significant height of wind waves (partition 0) m
phs1 significant height of primary swell waves (partition 1) m
phs2 significant height of secondary swell waves (partition 2) m
ptp0 peak period of wind waves (partition 0) s
ptp1 peak period of primary swell waves (partition 1) s
ptp2 peak period of secondary swell waves (partition 2) s
pwlen0 mean wavelength of wind waves (partition 0) m
pwlen1 mean wavelength of primary swell waves (partition 1) m
pwlen2 mean wavelength of secondary swell waves (partition 2) m
tm01 mean wave period based on first moment s
tm02 mean wave period based on second moment s
tps peak period of wind and swell waves s
tpssea peak period of wind waves below 8 seconds period s
tpsswe peak period of swell waves above 8 seconds period s
uwnd eastward wind component at 10m m/s
vwnd northward wind component at 10m m/s

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