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Oceanum New Zealand GFS Wave Forecast

February 2025

   
Model SWAN 41.31
Forecast horizon 7 days
Spatial resolution 0.05 - 0.00025 degree (~5 km - 25 m)
Temporal resolution 1 hourly
Region 165E - 180E, 48S - 34S
Forcings GFS winds and Oceanum spectra
Update frequency 6-hourly

Dataset description

The New Zealand wave forecast dataset provides operational wave predictions across New Zealand’s coastal waters and the surrounding Southwest Pacific Ocean (Figure 1). The forecast system comprises a hierarchy of nested domains: a regional 5 km parent grid covering all of New Zealand, with higher-resolution child grids for Auckland (1 km), Eastern Auckland (200 m), Taranaki (1 km), and Port Taranaki (25 m). Wave forecasts are produced using the SWAN (Simulating WAves Nearshore) third-generation spectral wave model, with a 7-day forecast horizon updated every 6 hours (00, 06, 12, 18 UTC).

Wind forcing is provided by NOAA GFS global atmospheric model. Spectral boundary conditions are supplied by the Oceanum Global WW3 wave model forced with GFS winds. Bathymetry is derived from the GEBCO 2021 global bathymetric grid.

The modelling setup employs the ST6 source term parameterisations. Spectra are discretised into 36 directional bins and 32 frequency bins, covering a frequency range from 0.037 to 0.71 Hz with 10% logarithmic increments. The parent grid features a 5 km (0.05 degree) resolution spanning New Zealand’s Exclusive Economic Zone, with progressively finer nested grids for coastal applications.

The dataset provides hourly forecast estimates for key ocean wave parameters (Table 2) including spectral quantities integrated over the full spectrum and for spectral partitions. Partitions are defined from an 8-second split (sea/swell) and from the Watershed method, which identifies one wind-forced partition and up to three swell partitions. Forecasts are archived for 30 days, and frequency-direction wave spectra are available at selected sites across all domains. Nowcast datasets are also available, constructed by retaining the most recent data from each forecast cycle to provide a continuous near-real-time historical record.

Figure 1

Figure 1. Mean significant wave height from the New Zealand hindcast domain (used for forecast validation). The locations of 2D spectra hourly output are shown by the black dots.


Validation

The wave model physics and calibration have been validated against satellite altimeter observations for the corresponding hindcast domain. Validation results are available through the Oceanum Hindcast Satellite Validation App, which provides density scatter plots, quantile comparisons, and statistical metrics for the New Zealand region.


Data description

Table 1. Data description.

Field Value
Title Oceanum New Zealand wave forecast
Institution Oceanum
Access Oceanum Datamesh
Source SWAN 41.31A
Source terms ST6
Forecast horizon 7 days
Update frequency 6-hourly (GFS)
Archive period 30 days
Temporal resolution 1 hourly
Frequency discretisation 32 frequencies between 0.037 - 0.71 Hz at 10% logarithmic increments
Direction resolution 10 deg
Bathymetry GEBCO 2021 Grid
Winds NOAA GFS
Boundary Oceanum Global WW3 wave forecast (GFS forced)

Nested domains

Domain Resolution Coverage Spectra sites
New Zealand 0.05° (~5 km) 165E-180E, 48S-34S 2390
Auckland 0.01° (~1 km) Auckland region 552
Eastern Auckland 0.002° (~200 m) Eastern Auckland coast -
Taranaki 0.01° (~1 km) Taranaki Bight 22
Port Taranaki 0.00025° (~25 m) Port Taranaki -

Linked Datamesh datasources

New Zealand 5km:

Auckland 1km:

Eastern Auckland 200m:

Taranaki 1km:

Port Taranaki 25m:

Nowcasts (continuous near-real-time archive):


Gridded output parameters

Integrated wave parameters are stored hourly over the domain at the native model resolution. Table 2 describes the gridded output parameters.

Table 2. Gridded output parameters.

Variable Long Name Units
depth depth below sea surface m
hs significant height of wind and swell waves m
hs_sea significant height of wind waves m
hs_sw significant height of swell waves m
tps smooth relative peak wave period of wind and swell waves s
tps_sea smooth relative peak wave period of wind waves s
tps_sw smooth relative peak wave period of swell waves s
dpm mean direction at the spectral peak of wind and swell waves degree
dpm_sea mean direction at the spectral peak of wind waves degree
dpm_sw mean direction at the spectral peak of swell waves degree
tm01 mean wave period based on first moment s
tm02 mean wave period based on second moment s
dspr directional spreading degree
fspr frequency spreading -
phs0 significant wave height of partition 0 (wind-forced) m
phs1 significant wave height of partition 1 (swell) m
phs2 significant wave height of partition 2 (swell) m
phs3 significant wave height of partition 3 (swell) m
ptp0 peak period of partition 0 (wind-forced) s
ptp1 peak period of partition 1 (swell) s
ptp2 peak period of partition 2 (swell) s
ptp3 peak period of partition 3 (swell) s
pdir0 peak direction of partition 0 (wind-forced) degree
pdir1 peak direction of partition 1 (swell) degree
pdir2 peak direction of partition 2 (swell) degree
pdir3 peak direction of partition 3 (swell) degree
xwnd eastward component of wind velocity m/s
ywnd northward component of wind velocity m/s

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