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Oceanum New Zealand Wave Forecast

June 2026

   
Model SWAN 41.31
Forecast horizon 7 days
Spatial resolution 0.05 - 0.00025 degree (~5 km - 25 m)
Temporal resolution 1 hourly
Region 165E - 180E, 48S - 34S
Forcings GFS/ECMWF winds and Oceanum spectra
Update frequency 6-hourly (GFS) / 12-hourly (ECMWF)

Dataset description

The New Zealand wave forecast dataset provides operational wave predictions across New Zealand’s coastal waters and the surrounding Southwest Pacific Ocean (Figure 1). The forecast system comprises a hierarchy of nested domains: a regional 5 km parent grid covering all of New Zealand, with higher-resolution child grids for Auckland (1 km), Eastern Auckland (200 m), Taranaki (1 km), Port Taranaki (25 m), Otago (1 km), Dunedin (250 m), Hawke Bay (1 km), and Napier (50 m). Wave forecasts are produced using the SWAN (Simulating WAves Nearshore) third-generation spectral wave model, with a 7-day forecast horizon. The system is run with two independent forcing configurations: a GFS-forced stack updated every 6 hours (00, 06, 12, 18 UTC) and an ECMWF-forced stack updated every 12 hours (00, 12 UTC).

Wind forcing is provided by either the NOAA GFS global atmospheric model (6-hourly updates) or the ECMWF IFS global atmospheric model (12-hourly updates). Spectral boundary conditions are supplied by the Oceanum Global WW3 wave model forced with the respective wind source (GFS or ECMWF). Bathymetry is derived from the GEBCO 2025 global bathymetric grid, supplemented by high-resolution survey data in selected coastal nests.

The modelling setup employs the ST6 source term parameterisations. Spectra are discretised into 36 directional bins and 32 frequency bins, covering a frequency range from 0.037 to 0.71 Hz with 10% logarithmic increments. The parent grid features a 5 km (0.05 degree) resolution spanning New Zealand’s Exclusive Economic Zone, with progressively finer nested grids for coastal applications.

The dataset provides hourly forecast estimates for key ocean wave parameters (Table 3) including spectral quantities integrated over the full spectrum and for spectral partitions. Partitions are defined from an 8-second split (sea/swell) and from the Watershed method, which identifies one wind-forced partition and up to three swell partitions. GFS-forced forecasts are archived for 30 days and ECMWF-forced forecasts for 7 days, and frequency-direction wave spectra are available at selected sites across all domains. Nowcast datasets are also available for both forcing configurations, constructed by retaining the most recent data from each forecast cycle to provide a continuous near-real-time historical record.

Figure 1

Figure 1. Mean significant wave height from the New Zealand ERA5 hindcast parent domain (used for forecast validation). The bounding boxes of all forecast nested domains are outlined in black. Spectra output site locations are shown by black dots (parent domain) and black dots (nested domains). Depth contours are shown at 100 m, 500 m, 1000 m, and 2000 m.


Validation

The wave model physics and calibration have been validated against satellite altimeter observations for the corresponding hindcast domain. Validation results are available through the Oceanum Hindcast Satellite Validation App, which provides density scatter plots, quantile comparisons, and statistical metrics for the New Zealand region.


Data description

Table 1. Data description.

Field Value
Title Oceanum New Zealand wave forecast
Institution Oceanum
Access Oceanum Datamesh
Source SWAN 41.31A
Source terms ST6
Forecast horizon 7 days
Update frequency 6-hourly (GFS) / 12-hourly (ECMWF)
Archive period 30 days (GFS) / 7 days (ECMWF)
Temporal resolution 1 hourly
Frequency discretisation 32 frequencies between 0.037 - 0.71 Hz at 10% logarithmic increments
Direction resolution 10 deg
Bathymetry GEBCO 2025 Grid
Winds NOAA GFS or ECMWF IFS
Boundary Oceanum Global WW3 wave forecast (GFS or ECMWF forced)

Nested domains

Table 2. Nested domain overview.

Domain Resolution Bounds Spectra sites
New Zealand 0.05° (~5 km) 165–180°E, 48–34°S 2390
Auckland 0.01° (~1 km) 173.60–176.00°E, 37.25–35.75°S 552
Eastern Auckland 0.002° (~200 m) 174.60–175.25°E, 36.95–36.55°S 536
Taranaki 0.01° (~1 km) 173.00–175.10°E, 40.00–37.70°S 22
Port Taranaki 0.00025° (~25 m) 174.000–174.070°E, 39.07–39.03°S 7
Otago 0.01° (~1 km) 169.50–171.40°E, 46.95–45.35°S 192
Dunedin 0.0025° (~250 m) 170.50–170.90°E, 46.00–45.65°S 14
Hawke Bay 0.01° (~1 km) 176.85–178.60°E, 39.80–38.50°S 214
Napier 0.0005° (~50 m) 176.87–176.96°E, 39.49–39.41°S 4

Linked Datamesh datasources

Each domain is available in both GFS-forced (6-hourly updates) and ECMWF-forced (12-hourly updates) configurations, with corresponding nowcast datasets providing a continuous near-real-time archive.

New Zealand 5km:

Auckland 1km:

Eastern Auckland 200m:

Taranaki 1km:

Port Taranaki 25m:

Otago 1km:

Dunedin 250m:

Hawke Bay 1km:

Napier 50m:


Gridded output parameters

Integrated wave parameters are stored hourly over the domain at the native model resolution. Table 3 describes the gridded output parameters.

Table 3. Gridded output parameters.

Variable names link to the corresponding NERC Vocabulary Server standard name where available. All parameters are defined on the time, latitude and longitude coordinates.

Variable Long Name Units
botl depth below mean sea level m
depth depth below sea surface m
dpm mean direction at the spectral peak of wind and swell waves degree
dpmsea mean direction at the spectral peak of wind waves below 8 seconds period degree
dpmswe mean direction at the spectral peak of swell waves above 8 seconds period degree
dspr directional spreading of wind and swell waves degree
fspr normalised width of the frequency spectrum of wind and swell waves -
hs significant height of wind and swell waves m
hsea significant height of wind waves under 8 seconds period m
hswe significant height of swell waves above 8 seconds period m
pdir0 mean direction of wind waves (partition 0) degree
pdir1 mean direction of primary swell waves (partition 1) degree
pdir2 mean direction of secondary swell waves (partition 2) degree
pdir3 mean direction of tertiary swell waves (partition 3) degree
pdspr0 directional spreading of wind waves (partition 0) degree
pdspr1 directional spreading of primary swell waves (partition 1) degree
pdspr2 directional spreading of secondary swell waves (partition 2) degree
pdspr3 directional spreading of tertiary swell waves (partition 3) degree
phs0 significant height of wind waves (partition 0) m
phs1 significant height of primary swell waves (partition 1) m
phs2 significant height of secondary swell waves (partition 2) m
phs3 significant height of tertiary swell waves (partition 3) m
ptp0 peak period of wind waves (partition 0) s
ptp1 peak period of primary swell waves (partition 1) s
ptp2 peak period of secondary swell waves (partition 2) s
ptp3 peak period of tertiary swell waves (partition 3) s
pwlen0 mean wavelength of wind waves (partition 0) m
pwlen1 mean wavelength of primary swell waves (partition 1) m
pwlen2 mean wavelength of secondary swell waves (partition 2) m
pwlen3 mean wavelength of tertiary swell waves (partition 3) m
tm01 mean absolute wave period of wind and swell waves from the first frequency moment s
tm02 mean absolute wave period of wind and swell waves from the second frequency moment s
tps smooth relative peak wave period of wind and swell waves s
tpssea smooth relative peak wave period of wind waves below 8 seconds period s
tpsswe smooth relative peak wave period of swell waves above 8 seconds period s
xcur eastward component of tidal current velocity m/s
xwnd eastward component of wind velocity m/s
ycur northward component of tidal current velocity m/s
ywnd northward component of wind velocity m/s

Spectra output

Frequency-direction wave spectra are stored hourly at selected sites across all domains with spectra output: 2390 sites in the New Zealand 5 km parent domain, 552 in the Auckland 1 km domain, 536 in the Eastern Auckland 200 m domain, 22 in the Taranaki 1 km domain, 7 in the Port Taranaki 25 m domain, 192 in the Otago 1 km domain, 14 in the Dunedin 250 m domain, 214 in the Hawke Bay 1 km domain, and 4 in the Napier 50 m domain. Spectra are discretised into 36 directional bins (10 degree resolution) and 32 frequency bins (0.037 - 0.71 Hz at 10% logarithmic increments).

Table 4. Spectra output parameters.

Variable names link to the corresponding NERC Vocabulary Server standard name where available. Spectra are defined on the time, site, freq and dir coordinates; lon and lat are per-site data variables giving each site’s location.

Variable Long Name Units
efth sea surface wave variance spectral density m² s / deg
dpt water depth m
wspd wind speed m/s
wdir wind direction degree
lat latitude degrees_north
lon longitude degrees_east

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